In addition to the being the only provider of Laser Alignments I now offer other services including:
- Install of ceramic balance beads. 2oz in each front wheel and 3oz in rear. Removal of existing wheel weight and inflation to tire PSI specs. $40
- B.U.D.S. hookup, code review, and reset. Printout if available at location. $10
- LED lights install*.
- Vinyl skin application*.
- Accessory installs*.
* Prices vary depending on complexity and time spent on job. Call or message for a quote.
Any Spyder owner knows, or will find out, their Spyder is a highly sophisticated machine with a computer controlled system that manages the systems of your machine. In order to “talk” to your Spyder BRP shops use the BRP Diagnostic Kit including a software package called BRP Utility and Diagnostic Software or (BUDS). The kit includes:
- MPI-3 Interface (main unit, is used for diagnosis of all BRP vehicles)
- Diagnostic Cable (for connection of MPI-3 Interface to 4-TEC/E-TEC vehicles)
- Most recent BRP B.U.D.S software
- License for BUDS Software
There is a misconception that you cannot own the software and interface if you are not an authorized BRP dealer. This is simply not true. The “Right to Repair” movement that challenges manufactures from keeping owners from self-repair or using a non-manufacturer endorsed shops has consistently been successful in forcing manufacturers to access these systems on vehicles they own. A number of states in the US have introduced or passed legislation to make this the law and a federal, bi-partisan effort for a US wide policy is in the works. Outside of the US there are already strong protections in place giving individuals and independent techs the right and means to access the vehicles interface. You can’t call up BRP or visit your local dealer and by a copy of BUDS and the interface cables. I have only found one reliable source for the software and connection kit. They are an international company and ship worldwide. The kit comes in a few different configurations and prices depending on the license type and duration and interfaces.
You first need to consider your license type. At minimum you will want the Spyder Roadster license and you can go as far as licensing for all BRP vehicles (which could also require additional interface cables). You then determine the license period. Your license will only work for the duration it is purchased for and you will have to buy an updated license key when it expires. With the license there are two other options- standard BUDS or Megatech which has advanced features dealers do not get access to. I didn’t find anything from the Megatech offering useful so I went with the standard and a Spyder only license for 1 year. My intent is to take advantage of multi year renewal discounts next year when I need to renew.
BUDS requires a computer running a supported Windows operating system and has system requirements so low that it will run on any computer available to you. I installed mine on an old 11″ Windows 7 laptop so I can easily transport it and the interface cables on my Spyder. Since the laptop had no CD drive I needed to copy what was on the disk to a flash drive and install from there. install of the drivers and BUDS software was quick and easy. I then brought everything down to my garage and plugged it in. Works perfect, is legally mine and a welcomed tool to my Spyder garage.
I really wanted a stereo on my F3. Options were pretty limited- BRP does not offer a system for the F3 and if they did it would likely be expensive. I looked at the Shark 1400w system with 4 speakers and really did not like the look of the speakers and the quality of the system is pretty lack luster. The Shark system claims 1400 watts of power but even at peak I am certain it is extremely exaggerated. The speakers claim to be rated at 300 watts each but when disassembled the speakers are stamped with a rating of 15 watts. So if this is the RMS rating the peak power is actually 2X that at 30 watts.
I wanted something with a controller I could bar mount and bluetooth for input. I found and bought a Kenwood 400 watt amp. It has 4 speaker output, bluetooth and an all weather controller. For speakers I went with Kicker 4″ speakers and matched enclosures. I paid just under $140 for the amp and $180 for the speakers and enclosures. I test wired everything before mounting it and paired it with my phone. Power must be fed to the positive and negative amp feeds and the blue “remote” line. I chose to mount the amp in the front trunk of F3 and wire it to the aux power feed found near the battery. This keeps the amp switched to the power of the bile and does not put a strain on the battery when the bile is not running. The first time I cranked the sound level to an extreme I ended up blowing the 10amp fuse on the accessories power. I replace the fuse with a 15amp and it has been fine since.
My speakers are Kicker Marine 4″ 2 way speakers rated at 50 rms (a bit below the 75 rms of the amp output). Since the peak ratings on the amp and speaker ended up in the same area I figured it would be OK and have seen no problems. The speakers are mounted in 4″ Kicker Marine Enclosures. I was not happy with the color of the speaker grills or the arms of the enclosures so I hit them with Rustoleum 2X Plastic Spray so they matched the enclosures and the bike closely. Even though the speakers and enclosures are from the same manufacture pairing them together is not as seamless as it should be. The real issue is getting the speaker wiring through the gasket and wall of the enclosure. You can not get the encased wiring or the ends with the wire connectors through the enclosure wall and the instructions offer little information.
I made it work by removing the connectors and stripping of 4-6″ of the outer wiring insulation. This left the two speaker wires with their red and black casing which easily slipped through the hole in the enclosure and the gasket that keeps the enclosure sealed. Once through I looped the wires into a knot to prevent them from pulling back through. I then crimped the new connectors (provided with the speakers) onto the wires and started to mount the speakers. The enclosures come with wadding to help increase the output of the speaker out from the speaker can (I don’t fully understand the science behind it but trust what has been done by speaker makers for years).
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